Many Moroccans believe the pipe dream of living in the U.S. or England equates to endless opportunities and money so when I tell locals that I live in Morocco long-term, I am usually met with puzzled expressions and raised eyebrows. The phrase “the grass is always greener on the other side” is very fitting when describing this ideology, that many seem to possess.
As someone who has experienced both sides of the fence, 2 years into my new life in Rabat, I can confidently say that I prefer the Moroccan lifestyle.
Upon arrival, I had few expectations of Morocco and little knowledge of the country, religion, and language. The whole reason why I came in the first place was to immerse myself, which meant throwing myself in at the deep end and moving in with a Moroccan family that lived in the traditional medina to learn all the fundamentals.
So apart from the guaranteed amazing weather here – I have to mention that because I am British. One of the many attractive aspects of Morocco is the sense of calm. This may sound crazy to someone, who has experienced the medina in full swing, where you see crowds of people and constant shouts of “promotion, solde, regalo.”
The essence of tranquility comes from the laid-back lifestyle, where you are not living to work but working to live. You have more time to socialize; sitting in the same cafe for hours on end with your two-dollar coffee, watching the world go by without being hassled to pay for another drink to warrant your stay.
There is the luxury of enjoying a lay-in, even on a workday, with office doors -in some cases- sliding open as late as 10 a.m., as opposed to the Western workday that seems to start at the crack of dawn and finish as the sun sets. Evenings last longer too, with cafes and restaurants staying open way past the dinner rush. Whereas, in the UK it is a constant hamster wheel effect where you are always exhausted with work.
The problem is in countries like the UK there is no other option, it is obligatory to work increasingly long hours to afford the ever-growing prices, yet you cannot enjoy life as you are always at work.
In the end, choosing to leave the 60-hour work week, cold, dark weather, and extortionate prices was a no-brainer.
The most unique aspect of Morocco, that I have yet to see anywhere else in the world, is the sense of community, even in large cities, you get the sense that people genuinely care for one another. Getting into a taxi, you can expect to hear the driver’s life story and talk amongst the other passengers as if you have known them for years.
Or when you buy a snack in the corner shop known as a hanot, you are instantly on a first-name basis, and if you forget your wallet one day, you can take what you want and pay the owner back when you’re next passing by, “Machi mochkil,” (no problem).
If someone does anything wrong or is deemed disrespectful, there is usually no need to call the police, locals will appear from nowhere and shout hchouma alik (shame on you), and ensure that person runs off with their tail between their legs.
Feeling safer in Morocco than in any other city I have lived in is perhaps the biggest shock of all. It is something I get great pleasure in telling people who are blinded by the stereotypical Western views of Arab-African countries believing them to all be “unsafe.”
Even basic tasks, like asking for directions, are met with kindness. On one of my first days in Morocco, I got lost and without the ability to communicate or a working phone, a man closed his shop and walked with me for 30 minutes, in the summer heat to show me the way.
Walking past a wedding, you are highly likely to be welcomed in to join the endless rounds of food and dancing until the following morning. In the first 2 months of being in Morocco, I was invited to 3 weddings, even without meeting the bride, groom, or any of their family beforehand. Something that seems an alien concept to our more formal, closed system in the UK.
There are downsides like there are in any country. One of my least favorites is the painful process of getting any official paperwork done in Morocco. You can expect a series of trips, spanning over months sometimes years.
On these unpleasant but obligatory trips, you pinball between offices, being told to go back to the exact office that you just came from, waiting in non-existent queuing systems, with a book’s worth of photocopies embroidered with a series of stamps, because if it is not stamped it is not real in Morocco.
Although, this seems a small price to pay to live in a country that makes you feel welcome from the minute you arrive.