Ramadan in Morocco is a very special time. The whole country shifts its routine to accommodate Islamic tradition. They put their lives on hold, and devote a month to religion, and to God. During this time, everyone is united by their shared piety, fasting, and spending time with loved ones.
These are just some of the things I was told by Moroccans leading up to the holy month. Now being halfway through Ramadan, I can now say they were right.
Ramadan is one of the five-pillars of Islam. It instills piety, teaches reflection, and unites the community. As a non-Muslim American studying in Rabat for the semester, I knew this in theory but felt somewhat disconnected from the message, until I experienced Ramadan first-hand.
My host family was excited for me to experience my first iftar. When it finally came, I was summoned out of my room by the sweet smell of chebakia. To my surprise, my host mom was joined at the table with her son, daughter-in-law, and grandchildren. I didn’t realize we would be eating with the whole family, but that night and almost every night since, we have kept up this tradition.
In the US, extended families only gather periodically for special occasions. It is rare to have an entire month of consecutive dinners together. So each night of Ramadan, even if we’re eating in silence because everyone is so tired, being in each other’s presence feels special – it makes the hard month of fasting feel a little bit easier.
On the first Monday of Ramadan my friends and I decided to go out for ice cream after iftar with our families. We got to the restaurant while the streets were still quiet. But once everyone finished the Taraweeh prayer, streets flooded with Moroccans of all ages walking around, eating, and hanging out with friends. For a city that usually falls quiet after sundown, the streets of Rabat during Ramadan are magical at night. My friends and I sat there for hours marveling at the ambience.
Ramadan was intimidating at first; I wondered how I could take part in Muslims’ holy month without imposing on such sacred territory. I quickly learned that even though I am a foreigner, I am always welcomed to be part of it.
Last week I was on the train from Rabat to Marrakech during iftar. About half-an-hour before sunset two men walked through the aisle and gave each person, including myself, free water and a small container of ONFC-sponsored dates. Since it was a Wednesday during Ramadan, there were not many people in the train car. Yet no one, not even a very-obvious foreigner, was forgotten.
After experiencing the first week of Ramadan, I decided I wanted to try fasting.
There were a few things that contributed to my decision to fast. First, fasting makes sense logistically. Most restaurants are closed during the day and because I have classes most of the day I don’t have much time to cook for myself. Second, I am in Morocco to be immersed in Moroccan culture. What better way to immerse myself than by fasting together with those who have so graciously hosted me? Finally, according to Islam one purpose of fasting is to build empathy with those less fortunate. Having empathy is the least we can do to support those going hungry in Gaza right now.
Fasting was difficult at first – during the first couple of days a painful headache lingered – but it got a little bit easier by the day. I learned to stay awake the whole day despite the lack of coffee pumping through me. When I told my host mom, professors, or Moroccan friends that I was fasting they were sympathetic and told me to take it easy. After all, they know the feeling. I take it one day at a time and keep reminding myself that, unlike many others around the world, when nightfall comes I will be able to eat again. I push through and at the end of each day I feel proud.
Ramadan requires meticulous work, unconditional love, and unwavering faith. Moroccans put their heart and soul into Ramadan by granting it their undivided attention for an entire month. After experiencing this, I feel more respect than ever for this country and its people.